Matt Warren
Porlock to Braunton: Rhododendrons, Rock Beaches and the Great Hangman
The second leg of our South West Coast Path adventure has delivered more climbs, aching feet, and unforgettable moments than we could have planned for. From Porlock to Braunton, we covered over 63 miles of stunning coastline, experienced soaring highs (literally), met a few legends along the way, and learned that there’s only so much vegan stodge two people can take! Here’s a day-by-day breakdown of the journey so far:
Day 2 – Porlock to Lynmouth (15.5 miles)
We knew today would be hard, but it was seriously tough—steep climbs, descents, and more woodland than we expected. The final drop into Lynmouth was brutal, especially under the blazing sun. The cliffs were bursting with wild rhododendrons, painting the coastline with incredible colours.
Every walker we met that day agreed: it was one of the toughest stretches they had ever faced. Trace had a bit of drama with a fall in the bathroom that night (thankfully no serious harm done, but quite funny that after all the walking and climbing, it was the bathroom that got her, lol!), and later we discovered ticks on our legs—not exactly the souvenir we wanted. So, obviously, I immediately went full hypochondriac and decided I’ve already contracted Lyme disease.
We stayed at the Orchard House Hotel in Lynmouth, which was great—especially their brilliant vegan breakfast. They really looked after us.
Day 3 – Lynmouth to Combe Martin (15.9 miles)
Another monster of a day. We kicked things off with a lung-busting walk up to Lynton (most sane people took the funicular railway or a taxi—we clearly missed the memo). From there, it was just climb after climb, finishing with the Great Hangman, the highest point on the whole South West Coast Path. In terms of elevation, it felt like we’d climbed Snowdon—but multiple times. No blisters, but our feet were aching by the end.
A real highlight was meeting Anton, a 79-year-old Dutch man walking all the way to St Ives. His wife calls this his “last jaunt”—but considering he once walked to Rome with his blind brother over 100 days, we wouldn’t bet on that. Legend is the only word for him.
We took a little detour to a rocky beach to soak our feet. It seemed like a good idea at the time… but that extra mile came back to haunt us later! Still, the views were breathtaking all day long. We stayed at Saffron House—another solid stay with excellent vegan breakfast options.
Day 4 – Combe Martin to Woolacombe (15.9 miles)
This one was still challenging, but not as brutal as the previous two. Whether we’re getting stronger or just too numb to feel it is anyone’s guess. We bumped into Carol again—our regular trail friend—who was planning to stop in Ilfracombe. Sad to think we might not see her again.
From Combe Martin we walked six miles to Ilfracombe, stopping to admire the Damien Hirst sculpture, which is genuinely striking. After that, it was another 9.9 miles to Woolacombe. Along the way, we saw about six seals playing in the sea, had our first pasty of the trip, and topped it off with some delicious vegan cakes and a triple truffle mushroom pizza. Top-tier trail food!
Woolacombe itself is incredible—massive, sandy beach, very chilled atmosphere. We stayed at Little Roadway Farm in a glamping pod, which was super cosy. No breakfast, but we grabbed something at the Snack Shack in Putsborough the next morning.
Day 5 – Woolacombe to Braunton (16.1 miles)
At last—a more moderate day. Still hot and sunny, but with fewer climbs and more chances to breathe. Saying that, we saw out first Adder! Amazing 🙂
We passed through Croyde Bay, which was beautiful but packed with beachgoers. That made it tricky to stop, de-boot, Vaseline our feet, and change socks without drawing a crowd!
Tracey’s feet were sore from the off—not from blisters (we’ve done well there), but from sheer exhaustion and overuse—the pounding has definitely taken its toll. It’s also been surprisingly hard to get healthy vegan options along the trail. There’s only so many sausage rolls and pasties we can stomach! Thankfully, Braunton came through with a Tesco stop where we loaded up on salad, hummus, falafel, and olives. Absolute heaven.
We stayed at Brookfield in Braunton—a simple but welcome rest after another long day.
Looking Ahead…
The last four days have been a blur of steep hills, sun-drenched paths, and some truly jaw-dropping views. Our bodies are tired, but our spirits are still high (mostly!). With aching feet, hats firmly on, and the smell of rhododendrons still in the air, we’re heading into the next stretch with curiosity and determination.
Apparently, the next two days are easy (if not a bit long… 16 miles again tomorrow).
That said, though… we’ve heard that Week 2 is the hardest week of the entire South West Coast Path, and honestly? We’re a bit nervous. But if the first five days have taught us anything, it’s that we’re stronger (and more stubborn) than we thought.
Wish us luck—we might need it!
