Matt Warren
Day 26 – Sennen Cove to Paul (15.4 miles)
Storms were predicted, rain was on the radar, and high winds were expected… and yet, somehow, we escaped it all! Aside from two very fleeting 30-second drizzles, we managed to walk in dry (if occasionally brooding) weather. Very lucky indeed.
We kicked off with a hearty breakfast at Old Success Inn in Sennen Cove, a charming 17th-century pub with great views over the beach. Then we hit the trail early, reaching Land’s End before the crowds descended. That meant we got the classic photo with the iconic signpost – no queue required. A must-do moment, and all the better for being quiet and calm.
From there, the coast was breathtaking – dramatic cliff edges, turquoise seas, and surreal, weathered rock formations that looked like they belonged on another planet. The trail twisted and turned through boulder fields and thick coastal vegetation. Unsure how far we’d end up going, we broke the day into manageable chunks with breaks every five miles – the first a coffee stop, then later lunch on a sunny ledge with sea views.
We eventually passed through Lamorna Cove, a peaceful and secluded spot with crystal-clear water and a small artists’ community vibe. Then, onwards to our final stop, the tiny village of Paul. As is now tradition, we had to conquer a brutal hill climb just before arriving at our B&B – the characterful The Kings Arms, which provided a warm welcome.
Today we felt tired – Trace perhaps more than me for once – but given it’s Day 26, that’s to be expected. That said, we’re definitely recovering faster after climbs and starting to notice some actual fitness gains. Maybe we’re becoming proper walkers after all – or at least, walkers who moan slightly less than every five minutes. Maybe.
Day 27 – Paul to Marazion (8.6 miles)
After a solid night’s sleep, we were fully ready for today’s ‘epic’… all six miles of it! With a shorter distance ahead, we enjoyed a more leisurely start and took our time.
We meandered down into Penzance, a historic port town with bags of character. We took care of a few essential errands – a new phone screen protector and a toothbrush charger plug (we won’t name names…) – and enjoyed a quick brew in town. On the way out, we grabbed a Tesco meal deal and made our way along the coast to Marazion.
We ate lunch on the beach with a stunning view of St Michael’s Mount – the tidal island crowned with a medieval castle that seems to float on the sea. A place that looks almost magical, especially from the shoreline.
Arriving at The Godolphin, right on the seafront, was a nostalgic moment for me – I vividly remember staying here nearly 40 years ago on a family holiday. Although parts of the area have changed, the view from the beach is frozen in time, and for a moment, it felt like I was a kid again, stepping straight into those old sun-drenched memories.
Dinner was a Huel meal and a few episodes of The Last Kingdom. (Uhtred, son of Uhtred, never lets us down.)
Day 28 – Marazion to Porthleven (12.7 miles)
Back to longer distances today, but knowing we had a rest day coming up definitely gave us a mental boost.
After a cracking breakfast at The Godolphin, we set out under grey but warm skies. The path undulated but wasn’t as challenging as previous days, and the scenery – while still nice – didn’t quite have the same wow-factor we’d grown used to. It may have been the cloudy skies or the endless stretches of high undergrowth, which left us staring at brambles and bugs rather than the coast.
Still, the highlight was definitely Praa Sands, a lovely beachside stop with white sand and good surf. We grabbed lunch at The Welloe, a brilliant little beachfront diner where the pizza hit the spot. Highly recommend it if you’re passing through.
Arriving in Porthleven, we were immediately charmed. It’s a quintessential Cornish fishing village with a working harbour, brightly painted cottages, and plenty of cosy eateries. We stocked up for the evening and looked forward to exploring it more during our day off.
Day 29 – Porthleven (Rest Day)
A blissful lie-in was followed by a leisurely wander around Porthleven. This place really has it all – a picture-perfect harbour, enough restaurants and cafés to keep you fed for weeks, and a very relaxed atmosphere.
We had lunch at Bolla, a fantastic little café that actually had healthy vegan options – a rare treat on the road! After that, we headed back to the apartment to try (and fail) to finish drying our laundry, and then cracked on with a bit of remote work.
By the evening, we were curled up with dinner and some telly – resting up for the start of a 7-day run of solid walking ahead. Bring it on.
Day 30 – Porthleven to Lizard (16.2 miles)
We set off early today knowing it would be a long one – and it was! Thankfully, the weather played nice for most of the day, with warm sun in the morning giving way to a breezier afternoon.
The views were spectacular as we followed the coast through a series of beautiful, lesser-known coves including Church Cove, Gunwalloe, Poldhu Cove, and Polurrian Cove – all offering dramatic sea vistas, golden sand, and craggy cliffs. Definitely places we’d return to for a proper beach day.
A mid-morning break gave us coffee and cake, and later we stopped for lunch at Porthmellin Café, which deserves a shout-out for their delicious vegan cheese toastie and sausage/hash brown butty – absolute winners.
As the wind picked up in the afternoon, it made the final stretch more gruelling, but we pushed on. Approaching Lizard, Britain’s most southerly point, was incredibly rewarding. Though we didn’t quite make it all the way to Lizard Point, we’ll be starting there first thing tomorrow. Even from the village, the dramatic coastline and surrounding heathland make it clear why this is such a popular spot.
We finished the day with a classic Cornish combo – a pasty and a pint – before crashing out. It’s fair to say this walk has moved from “adventure” into “achievement”, but we’re still loving every exhausting, exhilarating step.
