Matt Warren
Day 31 – Lizard Point to Coverack (11.7 miles)
We started the day with storm warnings on the radio, hail predicted, and the eerie blast of the Lizard Point Lighthouse foghorn cutting through the thick morning mist every 30 seconds. A grim forecast, but we geared up and headed out anyway.
Despite the drizzle, it never developed into the monster weather we were warned about. However, the overnight rain had turned the path into a muddy obstacle course. The Cornish section of the South West Coast Path continues to feel a little unkempt – overgrown, under-signposted, and definitely the most challenging terrain we’ve seen so far.
We took a much-needed coffee break at Cadgwith, a charming little harbour village. After that, the going got seriously tough: steep, slippy climbs over wet rock, boggy ground, and thorny, head-high undergrowth made the final stretch one of the most punishing miles we’ve ever done on the SWCP.
By the time we reached our B&B in Coverack, we were soaked, caked in mud, and very ready to dry out for what looked like another wet day tomorrow.
Day 32 – Coverack to Helford (14.1 miles)
The day began dry and optimistic… for all of 30 minutes. Then came the rain – relentless, cold, and soaking. The muddy, narrow, and slippery path made progress slow and exhausting.
We reached Porthallow, the official halfway point of the South West Coast Path – 315 miles done, 315 to go! Unfortunately, our dreams of celebrating with coffee and cake were dashed; everything was shut. So, soaked and snackless, we pushed on.
Later, we encountered our ‘should have been’ first ferry crossing of the day – but the tide was out. This meant wading across in water shoes through seaweed and shallow pools. Grim doesn’t quite cover it, especially with the rain hammering down. After that, there was more waterlogged terrain and another ferry before we finally reached the Ferry Boat Inn. A beer and crisps never tasted so good.
We climbed one last hill to our hotel, which thankfully turned out to be a spa hotel with big rooms, robes, and hot showers – just what we needed to recover and dry out our kit again.
Day 33 – Helford to Falmouth (11 miles)
Sunshine! Dry clothes! And a decent night’s sleep. We set off feeling almost human again. Tracey had scoped out Trebah Gardens Café for breakfast – a cracking choice. Good coffee, great food, and even a brief (if failed) attempt by Trace to rescue a robin stuck inside the café.
The day’s walk was bliss by comparison. The paths were clear, the hills manageable, and the sea views beautiful. In contrast to the overgrown and brutal trails of previous days, this stretch was a relief.
We arrived in Falmouth just as the Sea Shanty Festival was in full swing – pirate hats, live performances, and the sound of nautical tunes echoing from every corner. Falmouth is indeed a town, and a lively one at that. It’s also home to one of the world’s deepest natural harbours.
We celebrated reaching the halfway point (properly this time!) with dinner at Wilder, a plant-based Indian restaurant. The Thali was phenomenal. Then it was off to Tesco for tomorrow’s provisions and back for showers and our latest episode of The Last Kingdom.
Day 34 – Falmouth to Portloe (17.9 miles, including 2 ferry crossings)
A bright and early start saw us on the ferry to St Mawes, followed by a quick hop to Place via a water taxi. The weather was stunning, the paths dry, and the views spectacular. But we were tired – physically fine, but mentally weary from accumulated miles.
We reached Portscatho and stumbled into the Boathouse for what was meant to be just a drink. Then we saw the vegan nut roast ciabatta on the menu. Game changer. After lunch, we found renewed energy and made good time to Portloe.
Fuelled further by PB&J sandwiches and a clearer understanding of how under-fuelling affects us, we tackled the final hills well. At The Lugger, we discovered we’d been upgraded to a large room with a tub – result! Flip-flops on, pint in hand, and back to The Last Kingdom before the final day of this 7-day stretch.
Day 35 – Portloe to Mevagissey (12.2 miles)
We started with what may have been the best breakfast yet – chia overnight oats and avo on toast at The Lugger. A slightly grey start soon gave way to glorious sunshine.
The route offered stunning views of the turquoise sea but demanded hard work, with frequent hills and some early scrub slowing us down. A heavenly break came at The Mermaid Café in Gorran Haven, where we enjoyed a cheeky pasty and ice cream – fuel for the final miles.
We rolled into Mevagissey, checked into the Tremarne Hotel (with a pool!), and Trace dove straight in while I gave my feet a well-deserved soak. Then it was admin, dinner, and more Uhtred. Tomorrow is the final day before a rest day… and it cannot come soon enough. The clothes stink, we’re knackered, but spirits are still high… just about 🙂
