Matt Warren
Day 41 – Plymouth Waterfront Walkway (4.3 miles)
Today was supposed to be a rest day… but after a leisurely morning and a quick glance at tomorrow’s route, we realised we’d accidentally skipped the Plymouth Waterfront Walkway – a scenic stretch of the South West Coast Path we should’ve tackled yesterday after the ferry. Honestly, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise; if we’d crammed it into yesterday’s itinerary, we’d have topped 19 miles and been absolutely shattered.
Instead, we strolled the 4.3-mile route at a relaxed pace, soaking in Plymouth’s most picturesque and historic highlights. We wandered past the grand Royal William Yard, the iconic Smeaton’s Tower lighthouse on the Hoe, and the characterful Barbican with its cobbled lanes, fishing boats, and colourful harbourside buildings. The views across Plymouth Sound were stunning – all gentle waves and seabirds wheeling overhead – and the weather played nicely too.
We also treated ourselves to brunch at Boston Tea Party – highly recommend – and Tracey finally managed to replace her sunglasses. We headed back to our accommodation for a productive afternoon of work, admin and laundry, before wrapping up the day with dinner at Cosmic Kitchen, one of the best plant-based spots in the city. Early night for us – there’s a ferry to catch and a long walk looming.
Day 42 – Plymouth to Newton Ferrers (14.1 miles)
We hit the trail just after 7am, mindful that we needed to reach the River Yealm ferry crossing before the final boat at 4pm. We also decided to skip the shortcut ferry from Plymouth to Mount Batten, which added a solid 5.4 miles to the day. A tough call – especially with grey skies and gritty urban paths – but it meant we completed the full official SWCP route.
Once that city stretch was done, the scenery quickly returned to form. Rolling cliffs, open countryside, and coastal vistas kept our spirits up, and the time flew by. We made the Yealm crossing with time to spare and arrived at Walnut Cottage in Newton Ferrers – a lovely, quiet base. After a quick trip to the Co-op for supplies, we spent the evening puzzling over tomorrow’s logistics: we need to wade across Mothecombe Beach by 11:30am (low tide), but the ferry doesn’t start running until 10am… and it’s a 9-mile hike to get there. Looks like another very early start!
Day 43 – Newton Ferrers to Bigbury-on-Sea… well, Bantham! (17.9 miles)
A 6am start and straight into a 2-mile detour to avoid the late ferry. We made good progress despite some sneaky hills and unexpected rain. Arrived at the River Erme just in time to cross safely – water shoes on, shorts rolled up. Thanks to advice from walkers coming the other way, we found the best crossing point. The water was chilly but never deeper than our knees – though Tracey might argue otherwise!
After drying off, we powered on through to Bigbury-on-Sea where we were meant to stay in bell tents. Unfortunately, what greeted us was more Bear Grylls survival challenge than glamping: damp bedding, bugs, no electric, no Wi-Fi, and a grim toilet block about 150 yards away. We made a quick exit!
Luckily, we’d arrived early enough to catch the final 4pm ferry across to Bantham, where The Sloop Inn came to our rescue. Warm bed, hot shower, electricity – and sanity restored. However, while catching up on admin, disaster struck: we realised we’d skipped an entire day in our itinerary. Our luggage and bookings were headed for Dartmouth, but we were supposed to stop in Torcross. Oops. Due to a mix of ferry times, no accommodation options, and other scheduling issues, we now had no choice but to combine two days into one… the day after tomorrow we’ll need to walk over 24 miles. Gulp.
Day 44 – Bantham to Salcombe (13.1 miles)
After a hearty breakfast at the Sloop, we set off under dry skies and mild temperatures – perfect walking weather. It was a gentler day by design, giving us some breathing space ahead of tomorrow’s monster hike. We passed rolling hills, golden beaches, and windswept headlands, and while the beauty remained, our feet were definitely feeling it. My trainers are falling apart, and every step on uneven ground is a reminder.
We eventually made it into Salcombe and took the sea tractor ferry into the town centre. We needed to find a way to get across to East Portlemouth early the next morning, well before the first scheduled ferry at 8:30am. After chatting with a few locals and the harbourmaster (no luck), we were told to hang around near the water taxi office around 7am and hope. We grabbed a quick beer to steady the nerves, picked up supplies, and checked into the B&B for some much-needed rest. With bad weather forecast and 24+ miles ahead, we know tomorrow’s going to test us.
Day 45 – Salcombe to Dartmouth (24.3 miles)
We did it!
Last night, I posted in a Salcombe Facebook group asking for help crossing to East Portlemouth early – and while there were some kind replies, no firm offers came through. One guy messaged to say he could help at 7:30am but didn’t respond when we confirmed.
So, we went down to the harbour at 7am on the off chance. It was raining and deserted, so we ducked into a café… where a man immediately said, “Are you the couple from Facebook looking to get across?” Yep – that was us! His name was Andrew, and he immediately offered to take us across in his dinghy. We tried to pay – he refused – and zipped off back to finish his coffee. What a hero! The best start to what could’ve been a very daunting day.
With morale high, we set a solid pace despite the shifting weather. Rain, sun, wind – the full British coastal experience. Around 10 miles in, we hit a steep climb (possibly near Prawle Point, the southernmost tip of Devon). But then we were rewarded: thanks to low tide, we could skirt around a headland instead of climbing over it – and it was glorious.
At Torcross, we stopped for lunch at the Start Bay Inn, where we devoured vegan fish finger sandwiches, chips, and a Proper Job pint. It gave us a second wind. The final leg to Dartmouth was tough – the hills kept coming and the sun came out with a vengeance – but somehow, we were in great spirits, maybe still buzzing from the good deed that morning.
We reached Dartmouth just in time for a celebratory drink by the harbour (cocktail for Tracey, of course), grabbed food, and made our way to our accommodation at Merchant’s Rest – absolutely beautiful and centrally located. A perfect end to one of the best days of the trip. Time to soak our feet and open a bottle of red!
