Matt Warren
Day 56 – Weymouth (Day Off)
Today was a welcome change of pace – a proper day off in the seaside town of Weymouth, with Tracey’s mum and dad, Pat and Tony, joining us for some well-earned downtime. The day began with an absolutely enormous breakfast, made by Pat – enough to fuel us for a day of relaxing, wandering, and catching up on a few tasks that had fallen by the wayside.
After some laundry, admin, and a bit of light work, we headed into Weymouth to explore – and it did not disappoint.
Weymouth is one of the oldest seaside resorts in the UK, made famous in the 18th century when King George III frequently visited to take in the sea air and bathe in the waters. Its sweeping Georgian esplanade, golden sands, and working harbour make it a beautiful place to visit – and we enjoyed a slow wander along the promenade, popping into a few independent shops tucked away in the lanes.
We eventually found a cosy little café and stopped in for a brew and a slice of cake (because… why not?). After that, it was back to the house for a light lunch and a few more bits of admin before the next leg of the adventure.
However, as we were finalising the plan for the final few days of the walk, we realised we’d made a small but significant mistake in our route planning – right near the very end! So, a little reshuffle is now in order, and the final schedule will look like this:
- Day 57: Isle of Portland loop
- Day 59: Weymouth to Lulworth Cove
- Day 61: Lulworth Cove to Worth Matravers
- Day 62: Worth Matravers to South Haven Point
We’re almost there now – the finish line is in sight – but not without a little extra planning to get us over the line. Still, it wouldn’t be a true long-distance hike without the odd detour or misstep, right?
That evening, we all headed out for a lovely meal with Pat, Tony, Gareth and Vicky – and, naturally, a few well-earned drinks to toast the journey so far. It was great to all be together, sharing stories, laughs, and plans for the next few days.
How those drinks might affect tomorrow’s walk… well, we’ll soon find out! 😅
Day 57 – Weymouth Coast Path to Isle of Portland and Loop (16.1 Miles)
We set off just before 8am, thinking the stroll down to the Isle of Portland would be a gentle warm-up – maybe 3 miles at most. Turns out it was closer to 4.5 miles… classic misjudgement 😅. Still, the weather was kind, and as we crossed the dramatic causeway connecting the mainland to the Isle of Portland, we were greeted by something rare on this trip – a Starbucks! Even better, it was where we met up with our walking pals Gareth and Vicky for the day. Coffee, catch-up, and laughs were the perfect way to start.
With the sun already climbing, we set off along the east coast route of the island, heading toward Portland Bill – the southern tip. The route offered some of the most spectacular views we’ve seen yet. Towering cliffs, beautiful serene blue sea, and a near-endless coastline stretching back towards Land’s End, which now feels like a lifetime ago. Along the way, we passed Tout Quarry Sculpture Park, a fascinating open-air collection of carvings and art installations nestled among old quarry stone – a reminder of Portland’s historic connection to the building trade, with Portland Stone famously used in iconic structures like St Paul’s Cathedral and parts of Buckingham Palace.
The path wasn’t particularly steep or challenging, but the cumulative distance of the entire journey (and let’s be honest – maybe last night’s drinks too!) started to show. My legs were feeling heavy, and little aches began to creep in. Still, the views kept our spirits high. By the time we arrived at Portland Bill Lighthouse, the scenery was breathtaking – the sea, seagulls overhead, and crowds of sightseers soaking up the same natural beauty we’d been lucky enough to walk through. We sat down here for a well-earned lunch, taking it all in.
The return leg took us along the western side of the Isle. We chatted away – including conversations about pirates and pirate jokes – very fitting given Portland’s maritime past. We passed the Pirate Graveyard at St George’s Church, an eerie but fascinating spot where many gravestones are marked with skull and crossbones motifs (not that we saw them!), believed to represent both mortality and local seafarers lost to the sea.
Not long after, we walked past HMP The Verne, the large, fortress-like prison perched high on the island. Originally a 19th-century military citadel, it’s now a Category C men’s prison, mainly housing foreign nationals. The stark, imposing structure seems a world apart from the peaceful views around it. Somewhat chillingly, it’s also where disgraced former pop star Gary Glitter was held during part of his sentence – adding an eerie edge to an already imposing place.
One of the day’s more surreal moments came when we reached Fancy’s Farm – a small, family-run community farm near the island’s highest point. It’s not every day you round a corner and find Wallabies in Dorset, but there they were, hopping about among the sheep!
From there, it was a gentle and scenic descent back down toward the mainland. Gareth and Vicky were brilliant company, keeping us laughing and distracted from the creeping fatigue. We ended the walk with a celebratory dram in a nearby pub – a perfect way to toast a tough, but brilliant day.
Back in Weymouth, we linked up with Pat and Tony again and squeezed in another drink (rude not to!) before saying our goodbyes to Gareth and Vicky, who went in search of some well-deserved fish and chips. We grabbed some bits from the shop on the way home, then all tucked into a feast of pizzas and picky food back at the house.
After a day of sun, sea air, and over 16 miles on foot – bed never looked so good.
Day 58 – (Day Off) Exploring Lulworth Cove and Beyond
Today was another welcome day off from walking, so we started it in style – with an absolutely cracking breakfast. Once fuelled up, we cracked on with the usual “rest day” routine: a bit of work, a bit of washing, a bit of admin. All very glamorous. We also knew we’d be downsizing our gear later on and sending one of our cases back with Pat & Tony, so the day involved a bit of wardrobe planning too. With the temperatures rising, it’s safe to say the final few days are probably going to be all about T-shirts and shorts.
Once the practical stuff was sorted, we hopped in Pat and Tony’s car and did something we haven’t really done so far – we became tourists! We took a leisurely drive out to explore some of the areas we’ll be walking through in the coming days. First stop: Corfe Castle.
The village of Corfe is chocolate-box beautiful, with traditional stone cottages, cosy pubs and winding lanes – but it’s the dramatic ruins of Corfe Castle that steal the show. Perched high on a hill and visible for miles around, the castle dates back to the 11th century, built by William the Conqueror. It’s been the site of political intrigue, sieges and betrayal – including the dramatic downfall of Lady Bankes, who bravely defended the castle during the English Civil War before it was eventually captured and deliberately destroyed by Parliamentary forces. Oh, and let’s not forget the tale of King Edward the Martyr, who was murdered here in 978 by his stepmother so her own son could take the throne. Brutal, proper Game of Thrones stuff. Right up my alley.
From there, we made our way to Lulworth Cove, where we’ll be stopping over tomorrow night during the walk. It’s a beautiful spot – a near-perfect circular bay formed over thousands of years by coastal erosion. The chalk cliffs and turquoise water make it feel almost Mediterranean, and while it was busy with summer visitors, the atmosphere was brilliant. The geology here is famous worldwide – part of the Jurassic Coast, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and you can quite literally see millions of years of Earth’s history layered into the cliff face.
We weren’t done yet though – next on the agenda was a stop at Durdle Door. If you’ve never seen it, Durdle Door is an iconic natural limestone arch, created as the sea gradually eroded a hole through the rock. It’s one of the most photographed landmarks on the entire south coast and has been featured in music videos, films and even poetry. The walk down to the beach is steep and dramatic, but it’s the walk back up that really hits you – Pat might still be recovering from it now 😅. That said, the views were worth every step, stretching across the sea and back towards the Isle of Portland where we were just yesterday.
With our sightseeing done, we headed back to base to sort the cases and prepare for our final leg. Then it was off out for one final meal with Pat and Tony, who’ve been absolute legends over the past few days. Their support, company, and general wonderfulness have meant the world to us – particularly at this stage of the journey, when the legs are tired and the finish line is so close we can nearly touch it. Thank you so much for everything – we love you loads ❤️.
And before we sign off for the night – a quick update on our JustGiving total. We’re now incredibly close to our revised £2,000 target. If we could hit it before the final stretch, it would give us an incredible boost – not that we need much more motivation at this point; we’d honestly drag ourselves to the end if we had to! But smashing that goal would be amazing for us – and even more so for St Luke’s Hospice, who do such vital work. A massive thank you to everyone who’s already donated – and if anyone else can spare even a couple of quid, we’d be incredibly grateful.
Final four days coming up – let’s do this 💪
Day 59 – Weymouth to Lulworth Cove (12.8 Miles)
Today was always going to be a hot one – and the weather didn’t let us down. After sorting breakfast and lunch at our Airbnb, we were out the door and on the move by 8am. We said our final goodbyes to Pat and Tony, who’ve been absolute troopers, and then hit the promenade at Weymouth for a long, flat warm-up.
The Weymouth Esplanade is a classic British seafront with beautiful Georgian architecture, cheerful beach huts, and golden sands stretching alongside us for over three miles. It’s been a popular seaside resort since the 18th century, when King George III brought the royal seal of approval – and a bathing machine or two! The prom walk was properly lovely, with a sea breeze keeping things bearable despite the rising heat.
After about 3.5 miles, we paused for a quick coffee at the final café before the real work began – the coastal ascents. Things started off gently enough, and based on the elevation charts we’d seen, we knew the steepest bits would hit around the 7 to 8 mile mark. Just before that, we were delighted to spot a beach café called Reef, which we ducked into for a cold drink and a bit of shade.
To our surprise and joy, we bumped into a couple of familiar faces from the path – Evie and Rebecca, both aiming to finish on Monday. It was brilliant catching up, hearing their stories, and seeing how well they were both doing. They, like us, had that mix of excitement and slight dread that comes from being this close to the finish.
After a brief rest, we cracked on to tackle the first big climb of the day: White Nothe. This chalk headland rises around 450 feet above sea level and is known for its dramatic, sweeping views across the Jurassic Coast. The climb was relentless – it just seemed to keep going and going, with the sun blazing down the entire time. To make things even more exciting, the field we had to cross to start the ascent had a cheerful sign: “Bull in Field.” Let’s just say my pace quickened rather sharply at that point.
But once we reached the top, the view made it all worthwhile. We could see back across Weymouth, the Isle of Portland, and right along the coast we’ve been navigating for weeks now. Absolutely breathtaking – though we barely had time to enjoy it before the rollercoaster began again: steep descents (on some very narrow and rocky paths), then straight back up again… not once, not twice, but three more times. It was a proper slog in the heat, and we were drenched from head to toe.
We passed Durdle Door again, looking even more dramatic from above, and eventually rounded the final headland to arrive at Lulworth Cove, our resting spot for the night. As much as we love this area, we were very happy to kick off our boots.
After a quick phone call to double-check tomorrow’s access situation, it was confirmed – the Lulworth Ranges will be closed, so no going through there until Saturday. Not to worry – we’ll work around it. For now, we’re staying put, having a chilled Huel dinner and watching a bit of Corrie like a proper relaxing night in.
Only two more walking days to go now – but first, a day off tomorrow 😌
Day 60 (Day Off)
Today was all about doing nothing – and doing it well.
We arrived in the village of Worth Matravers early doors, and thanks to Renalto at Seascape, we were able to check in ahead of time. What a place! Honestly, I think it might be my favourite B&B of the whole trip – and seeing as it’s our last stop, it officially takes the crown. The views are stunning, the accommodation is spotless and full of thoughtful little touches, and Renalto couldn’t have been more welcoming or helpful. The second we walked through the door, it just felt right – calm, quiet, and exactly what we needed.
So, the plan was simple: rest. With the final two walking days still ahead of us – and tomorrow being one of the toughest – we knew today had to be a recharge day.
After getting ourselves settled, we popped out to the local tea room for a pasty, some chips, and a couple of cold drinks, because – yep – the heat hasn’t let up one bit. It’s been roasting again, so we didn’t feel remotely guilty about taking things slow.
A bit about Worth Matravers – it’s a tiny, postcard-worthy village in Dorset, perched just inland from the Jurassic Coast. With its duck pond at the centre, ancient stone cottages, and incredible coastal views just a short walk away, it feels like stepping into another time. There’s a timeless charm to it – no high street chains, no tourist tat – just a proper English village, with a great pub (The Square and Compass, if you’re ever nearby), and some of the best sunsets on this coastline. It’s been inhabited since at least the Iron Age and has long been a favourite with walkers, artists, and people who just want to breathe for a bit.
And that’s exactly what we did.
The rest of the day was pure chill. Bit of admin. Bit of reading. Bit of snoozing. Then we kicked back with a few episodes of Corrie and some Resident Alien (because nothing says “winding down” like a sarcastic extraterrestrial trying to fit in with humans).
This trip is rapidly drawing to a close, and although our legs are thankful, there’s definitely a part of us that doesn’t want it to end. But, for now, it’s all about early nights, recharged batteries, and bringing on tomorrow.
Let’s finish this in style.
Day 61 – Lulworth Cove to Worth Matravers (15.7 Miles)
The day started brilliantly! Renato served up a top-tier breakfast with excellent coffee, and we were absolutely stuffed. Our taxi turned up bang on time to take us back to Lulworth after our slight logistical hiccup, and by 10am we were ready to get going. The heat was already building—intense and relentless—but we were hopeful we could still make good progress.
The walk began tough, straight out the gate. We had to trek across Lulworth Cove’s iconic pebble beach (gorgeous, but ankle-twisting), then navigate around a landslide before tackling the steep climb out of the cove itself. It’s a dramatic and beautiful place, formed over thousands of years by the sea breaching the limestone cliffs to reach softer clays behind. That erosion shaped the perfectly rounded cove we see today—a textbook example of coastal geomorphology and one of Dorset’s most photographed spots.
As we reached the gates of the Ministry of Defence’s Lulworth Ranges, we had a brief moment of panic thinking they were locked. Thankfully, they weren’t. These ranges are still actively used for training, so the path is only open at certain times—we’d planned carefully around that. Mike, our chatty taxi driver, had tipped us off to take the first right just after entering the gate to find the Fossil Forest, and we’re glad he did. The signposting was poor at best, but the site was worth the detour.
The Fossil Forest is a rare geological site containing the preserved remains of a Jurassic-era forest. You can see circular impressions known as “algal burrs,” which formed around the tree stumps over 145 million years ago when this area was a tropical lagoon. If you like your coastal walks with a side of time travel, it’s right up your alley.
From there, we rejoined the South West Coast Path proper… and it hit back hard. It was all steep, unforgiving climbs and descents in blistering heat. We couldn’t decide if it was just fatigue, the temperature, or both—but either way, it was a proper slog. We’re honestly struggling to remember the names of all the climbs because there were so many, but a few that stand out include:
- Bindon Hill – one of the first major climbs, right out of Lulworth Cove.
- Mupe Bay – a steep, winding ascent with glorious views back toward the Cove.
- Gad Cliff – towering above the sea with sheer drops and views to die for.
- Tyneham Cap – another leg-burner, made tougher by the relentless sun.
- Ridge above Kimmeridge Bay – long, undulating and punishing in the heat.
By the time we reached Kimmeridge Bay, we were shattered. It’s a stunning bay known for its rock pools and fossil beds, part of the Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site. We refuelled with some much-needed food and cold drinks, and even managed a luxury sock change. Bliss.
But the break was brief, and more climbs were waiting for us. Honestly, it felt endless—but the coastal views helped distract us from the burn. Every turn revealed sweeping seascapes, dramatic cliff faces, and glimmering waves far below. Genuinely some of the most breathtaking scenery of the entire path.
We crossed paths with Evie and Rebecca again and found them in the same boat—beaten down but still going. In the end, the elevation we tackled today was roughly equivalent to climbing Snowdon. Again. By our reckoning, that puts us at around 48 Snowdon ascents since we started this walk. No wonder we feel slightly broken.
Eventually, after 15.7 brutal miles, we staggered into our B&B in Worth Matravers—utterly spent but proud. And just in time! Soph and Caz were nearby and heading over, so after a lightning-speed shower we rallied for an evening catch-up. This time, more about drinks than distance.
One final walk remains. We’re nearly there.
