Matt Warren
Day 36 – Mevagissey to Par (13.5 miles)
Today marked our final walking day before a much-anticipated day off – and mentally, that made a difference. We set off knowing we could handle anything the path threw at us. Or so we thought…
What we didn’t expect was just how relentlessly up and down the route would be! By the time we’d reached our halfway lunch spot, we’d already conquered 14 hills – each with its own brand of leg-burning steepness and rocky terrain. Still, at least the weather was kind. While the sun made things a little tougher, we were grateful it wasn’t raining. Dry ground meant we could build a decent pace without worrying about slipping.
The views more than made up for the effort. We stopped at Porthpean, a lovely little beach, for a refreshing Coke and some chips. Later, we reached Charlestown, which absolutely deserves a shout-out. This historic port is famed for its Grade II listed harbour and collection of tall ships, and it’s often used as a filming location (you might recognise it from Poldark or Alice in Wonderland). It felt like stepping into another era — and we found a cracking sandwich too.
Eventually, we made it to Par Sands Caravan Park, where Tracey pulled it out of the bag once again with a fantastic two-bed caravan, complete with all mod cons. We picked up supplies on the way, so all that was left was to tackle the laundry and put our feet up. While our (very stinky) clothes whirred away, we cracked open a bottle of wine and played Yahtzee. I won. Boom! Then it was dinner, the final episode of The Last Kingdom (farewell, Uhtred!), and a solid night’s rest.
Day 37 – Rest Day in Par
A slow and steady morning – and for once, no boots required! We got a bit of work done, had a proper breakfast (but not a fry-up!), then headed down to Par Beach. It’s not the most dramatic of Cornish beaches, but it was peaceful, and the perfect place to unwind with a book.
Later, we sorted our cases, prepped for the following day, and treated ourselves to a healthy dinner before curling up with Coronation Street and Seven Kings Must Die — the final chapter in Uhtred’s saga. Gutted it’s over, but it may have inspired my next tattoo: ‘Destiny is all.’
Day 38 – Par to Polperro (14.5 miles)
Back on the path today, and what a scorcher! Within five minutes we were both soaked in sweat. The walk itself was another beauty — rolling hills, wildflowers, and that big Cornish sky stretching over it all.
We reached Fowey, where we had to take a little ferry to continue the trail. We fancied a vegan pasty, but it was a 40-minute wait, so we opted for a sweet vegan croissant and pressed on.
Soon after, we bumped into Evie, a fellow walker we’d seen a few times before. This time, we actually had a proper chat and walked a few miles together. She filled us in on a bit of backstory about a boat we’d photographed a few days earlier — turns out it was part of an ongoing investigation. The sailor had gone missing at sea, and walkers had even been asked to keep an eye out for signs in the coves. We’d just assumed it was someone’s dodgy parking!
We eventually made it to Polperro, one of Cornwall’s prettiest fishing villages. Narrow lanes, slate-roofed cottages, and a working harbour — it’s like something out of a postcard. We celebrated with a well-earned beer and chip butty. Unfortunately, our accommodation was less impressive — overpriced and distinctly underwhelming. But hey, it was only for one night, and Uhtred was no longer with us, so we switched back to Parenthood and our current audiobook before bed.
Day 39 – Polperro to Crafthole (15.3 miles)
Hot. Hilly. Hard. That pretty much sums it up.
We set off slightly later than usual, and the heat hit us straight away. The plan was to split the day into three chunks: five miles, break; another five, break; then drag ourselves to the finish.
The first stretch went well, despite the hills. We stopped in Looe, a lively coastal town with a great little spot for lunch. I had a Diet Coke and we both took the chance to cool down and refuel.
The second leg was much harder. The climbs started coming thick and fast, and they were brutal. We were both drenched, and the heat was relentless. We reached Seaton Beach after ten miles for a much-needed rest and drink.
The final five miles packed in the biggest climbs of the day. We passed through Portwrinkle, another pretty village, and tackled the last big ascent before arriving at The Liscawn Inn in Crafthole. A great little place with a warm welcome — and most importantly, comfy beds.
This was our last night in Cornwall, which feels surreal. Tomorrow we enter Devon and cross into the (comparatively) bustling city of Plymouth. Cornwall has been a rollercoaster — in the best possible way. We’ve seen it in all weathers, shared laughs with visiting friends, and clocked up mile after mile of jaw-dropping scenery. We’ll miss it. Cornwall, you rock.
Day 40 – Crafthole to Plymouth (15.2 miles)
Today’s forecast? 29°C and dry, according to the BBC. Reality? Rain — at least three separate showers to start the day. Classic!
Despite the damp start, it stayed muggy and very warm throughout. The early part of the route was scenic but busier than usual — it was Saturday, and the paths were packed. It didn’t quite have the same peaceful vibe we’d enjoyed all week.
We reached Cawsand (not Crawsands, as I originally thought!) for lunch at a charming café that kindly made us fresh focaccia butties with avocado, tomato and rocket. Absolutely delicious.
From there, we continued along the path to the Cremyll Ferry, which took us across the River Tamar into Plymouth — officially crossing from Cornwall into Devon!
Plymouth is full of maritime history, from Sir Francis Drake to the Mayflower Steps, and we’re hoping to explore a bit more this evening. The city feels vibrant, and our accommodation is central — a touch small, but after 40 days on the road, that’s just standard. Plenty of vegan options around too, which is always a bonus.
