Matt Warren
Day 16 – Rest Day – Padstow
The sun was shining, Padstow was looking beautiful… and I was full of cold. Still, we made the most of it. We had a lovely wander around town and treated ourselves to breakfast at Cherry Trees Coffee House – a proper gem of a spot. The food was excellent and much-needed.
Laundry, however, was another matter. A mild panic set in when we realised we couldn’t do any washing – until we discovered that tomorrow’s accommodation had laundry facilities. Crisis averted!
Later, we headed to Sabzi Deli for lunch – and wow, what a find! Bursting with fresh, healthy, plant-based goodness (hard to come by on the road), we tucked into a fantastic spread, including a carrot, ginger and orange juice that totally hit the spot.
We chilled out for the rest of the day, caught up on a bit of work, and even squeezed in a bit of telly – Corrie and The Last Kingdom, naturally.
Day 17 – Padstow to Porthcothan (14.5 miles)
We were up and out early, grabbing a quick coffee before rejoining the path. Along the way, we bumped into Steve – a familiar face we’d passed a few times already. He started off pretty quiet and reserved, but we eventually wore him down and had a laugh together. Turns out it’s his fifth time walking the entire path, camping along the way. He showed us some of the spots he’s been staying in – absolutely stunning. Shame that some dog walkers give him grief for wild camping, as he’s clearly respectful and leaves no trace. Just a flat patch of grass where his tent had been.
Not long after, we were stopped by a bloke with a dog who asked, “Are you Jez’s mates?” We said yes – turns out it was Ade, who runs Crave Coffee with Jez! Small world. Jez had mentioned Ade was in Padstow, but we didn’t expect to run into him. We chatted for a while and he tipped us off about some scenic spots to look out for on our route.
The walk itself was epic – a mix of moody, misty coastline straight out of Poldark, sea spray in the wind, and then, later on, brilliant blue skies. The bays, coves, and rocky outcrops were absolutely breathtaking. Honestly, it was probably my favourite day so far.
We arrived at Macdonald’s Farm B&B, and it was easily the best place we’ve stayed – spacious, comfy, and full of character. There were animals to feed too: llamas, pigs, goats – Trace was in her element! But laundry and a cold beer were calling, so we reluctantly dragged ourselves away. Dirty fries and a quiet night rounded off a fantastic day.
Day 18 – Porthcothan to Newquay (11.6 miles)
Another brilliant day! After a hearty breakfast (our first fry-up in three days!), we got back on the path under perfect weather – sunshine with a light breeze, just right for walking.
The route gave us sweeping beaches, rugged cliffs, and gentle hills from the get-go. We took a quick coffee break early on, then stopped at Watergate Bay for a delicious vegan pesto pizza. It’s every bit as beautiful as people say – but a bit too crowded for our tastes, so we didn’t linger.
As we approached Newquay, we unexpectedly stumbled upon a TV or film shoot – possibly Dutch or German judging by the signs. We had a bit of a nosey, hoping to spot someone famous, but no luck – so we moved on and checked into our accommodation.
The room seemed decent and had a bath – perfect for soaking our feet. But it was Friday… in Newquay… during half-term… and the sun was shining. Translation: Stags and Hens galore. Not holding out hope for a peaceful night! Fingers crossed we get a bit of rest before heading into quieter territory again. Hoping to catch The Salt Path this week too – it’s just been released and couldn’t be more fitting.
Day 19 – Newquay to Perranporth (13.5 miles)
We got a reasonable night’s sleep – not thanks to the party crowd, but in spite of a world-class snorer in the next room. Still, we made it through and were back on the trail after a quick breakfast.
Our first stop was Newquay harbour, where we promptly hit a dead end unless we fancied a swim. A quick backtrack and we were on the right path again, hugging the coastline past beach after stunning beach. They’re massive, and even when busy there’s space for everyone. If the UK had more reliable sunshine, we wouldn’t need to cram ourselves onto beaches abroad!
We had a bit of mist and drizzle to start with, but it soon cleared into another glorious day. With the tide in early on, we had to hop on a tiny ferry – just £1.80 to cross a narrow stretch of water, and worth every penny.
Lunch was a cracking curried pasty and a Diet Coke before we pushed on. One highlight was Chick Island, named for the constant chirping of seabirds – and just below it, loads of seals basking in the sun. Magical stuff.
We passed a military base with big signs warning us not to touch anything that might explode… cheerful! And then, with the tide now out, we finished the walk right along the beach into Perranporth and our home for the night, The Seiners Arms. It’s in a cracking location with some tasty grub on the menu – looking forward to a well-earned bite and maybe a pint or two.
Day 20 – Perranporth to Portreath (13.3 miles)
We kicked off the day with a classic Co-op meal deal to fuel us up, knowing we had a tough one ahead. The route was graded as “challenging to severe” – and wow, did it live up to that. It began with an immediate climb, right into the wind, with showers drifting in and out to keep us on our toes.
Eventually, the clouds gave way and the sky opened up, revealing truly stunning views. The coastline here is wild and dramatic, and scattered along the path were haunting remnants of Cornwall’s tin mining heritage – crumbling engine houses and stone walls dating back to the early 1800s. A real highlight was passing the iconic Wheal Coates, perched proudly above the sea, a reminder of the area’s rich and gritty industrial past.
Despite the beauty, we found today hard going. No injuries or specific aches – just a deep, general fatigue. There’s something about day four of each walking week that really seems to test us. It didn’t help that around 90% of the route was rough underfoot: sharp, rocky, and totally unforgiving. What we would’ve given for a stretch of soft grass to walk on – just for a little relief!
No matter how many coffees we grabbed, how well we fuelled, or how many times we changed our socks, today was just one of those days to dig deep and keep putting one foot in front of the other. Not even a big old ice cream lifted the spirits as much as we’d hoped!
Still, we made it. We got to our accommodation, had a good shower, and are now starting to feel a little more human again. Here’s hoping tomorrow brings a bit more spring to our step – we’re ready for it. 😊
