South West Coast Path: Sun, Slogs & Seaside Stops

From Braunton to Hartland Quay – Finding Rhythm, Rest Days, and Real Coastal Beauty

Day 6: The Brookfield, Braunton ➝ The Wayfarer Inn, Instow – 13.5 miles

Today was a slog for me (Matt). The route was flat, but the tarmac and chunky gravel just battered my feet, and the sun seemed relentless all day. With no hills you’d think it’d be a breeze, but I was well and truly sapped by the end of it. Trace kept spirits high though – especially after a Costa coffee where she somehow managed to talk non-stop for an hour! That energy boost definitely helped pull me through.

Not too many dramatic views today – we followed an old railway line that was once used by the Atlantic Coast Express (and is now part of the Devon coast-to-coast cycle route and The Tarka Trail). The estuary offered some lovely moments, though. A surprise highlight was bumping into Anton again – he’s absolutely smashing it. We asked if he was taking any days off and he just laughed: “What would I do… walk?!” Legend.

Halfway through we found The Fremington Quay Café and had the best vegan roast baguette – nut roast, roast potatoes, and gravy. Pure joy! Once we made it to our digs, we celebrated with a cold beer and caught a bit of football in the beer garden. Roast, football, sunshine and a pint… it felt like our usual Sunday – just 200+ miles from home! One day to go until our rest day… bring it on.

Day 7: The Wayfarer Inn, Instow ➝ Luxury Apartments, Westward Ho! – 12.8 miles

Another flat day with not much shade and lots of heat. We stopped in the postcard-perfect village of Appledore for lunch – full of charm and pastel-painted cottages, and just the sort of place you want to meander through slowly. The walk along the estuary into Westward Ho! was gentle but warm, and the town itself had full seaside vibes – colourful terraces, amusements, and the smell of doughnuts in the air.

It might have a bit of that ‘bucket and spade’ energy, but it’s also surprisingly quaint in places. Our apartment is gorgeous – and Trace immediately found the jigsaw puzzles! Bonus points for having a bath, too. Day off tomorrow – can’t wait!

Day 8: Rest Day – Westward Ho!

Glorious. A proper chance to unwind. We finally got some laundry done (it was getting critical) and cooked a decent meal in the apartment. Feet up, TV on. Binge-watched Corrie, finished the Dexter prequel, and got stuck into The Last Kingdom. No boots, no backpack, just a cup of coffee and a bit of normality. Bliss.

Day 9: Westward Ho! ➝ The New Inn, Clovelly – 12.4 miles

Back on the path and it felt good to be moving again – although we’ve been warned that the next 7 days are the most brutal stretch of the entire trail. We got our first proper bit of rain this morning – not loads, but enough to soak the long grass and give us two miles of soggy socks and squelchy feet. Thankfully, a sock change and a quick wring-out sorted us out before any blisters developed.

Today was full of ups and downs – quite literally – and it felt like we were truly leaving the more touristy bits behind. The path was quiet, wild, and beautifully remote.

Tonight, we’re staying in Clovelly, a unique and historic fishing village that tumbles dramatically down a 400-foot cliff to the sea. Cars aren’t allowed, so everything – and we mean everything – is hauled around on wooden sledges along the cobbled lanes. It’s like stepping back in time. The harbour is postcard-perfect, and yes, we treated ourselves to a pint and crisps by the water. Would have been rude not to.

Day 10: The New Inn, Clovelly ➝ Hartland Quay Hotel, Hartland Quay – 11.3 miles

Another scorcher of a day – not a cloud in the sky – and we were accompanied by the constant chatter of chaffinches all day long. There’s something special about walking with birdsong as your soundtrack. The coastal views today were on another level – rugged cliffs and sparkling blue sea as far as the eye could see.

We weren’t expecting a café en route, so stumbling across one mid-walk was a brilliant surprise – you never walk past coffee on the Coast Path!

The final few hills caught us off guard – seriously steep and pretty relentless – but the views from the top were worth every step. Hartland Quay is stunning: dramatic cliffs, crashing waves and that sense of utter remoteness you only get on this stretch of the coast.