Matt Warren
The South West Coast Path Journey Continues…
Day 11 – Hartland Quay to Bude (16.3 miles)
“The toughest day of the whole coastal path” – and yet, strangely, one of the most rewarding.
Today’s stretch from Hartland Quay to Bude was billed as the hardest on the South West Coast Path – with over 4,000 feet of elevation and a rollercoaster of around 13 ascents and descents. And yes, it lived up to the hype. The morning sun beat down relentlessly, draining energy quickly – but the scenery more than made up for the effort.
The North Devon cliffs here are nothing short of spectacular – dramatic rock formations, windswept ridges, and uninterrupted views of the Atlantic. Every peak conquered gave way to a new panoramic view, often with seabirds wheeling below and the sound of waves crashing far beneath.
A highlight of the day was a perfectly timed lunch break at the Morwenstow Tea Rooms – a gem tucked just inland. Known for their homemade cakes, pasties, and friendly atmosphere, it’s worth noting that Morwenstow itself was once home to eccentric vicar and poet Robert Stephen Hawker, who famously built a driftwood hut on the cliffs where he wrote poetry and watched for shipwrecks.
Fueled by lunch – and a cheeky Diet Coke – the second half of the day felt slightly easier, aided by some cloud cover and a cooling sea breeze. We reached Bude earlier than expected, shaving a couple of hours off our planned time and celebrating with a well-earned pint on the seafront. The legs were tired, but the spirits were high.
Day 12 – Bude to Crackington Haven (12.1 miles)
“A gentle amble? Try again…”
After yesterday’s marathon, we expected today to be a welcome break. It started that way – a peaceful breakfast, a stroll through Bude to stock up on supplies, and an easy three-mile saunter to Widemouth Bay, where we enjoyed a lovely coffee. This bay is popular with surfers and offers sweeping sands and easy walking terrain.
But then… things changed.
After lunch on a well-placed bench overlooking the sea, we pressed on – and were soon warned by a fellow walker that the hills ahead were ‘interesting’. Understatement of the century. What was supposed to be a ‘recovery day’ turned into a genuine test of strength and nerve, especially when the wind picked up to near gale force levels and the ridges offered little protection.
By the time we reached Crackington Haven – a tiny hamlet surrounded by steep cliffs – we were shattered. A pint helped calm the nerves, but unfortunately, the accommodation did not. Trewartha B&B was… unique. Let’s just say it had strong 1960s horror movie vibes – complete with German murmuring, mood lighting, and a domestic disagreement between the hosts.
One for the memory bank – or possibly a future Netflix script.
Day 13 – Crackington Haven to Tintagel (13.4 miles)
“A hoarder’s breakfast, a witchy museum, and a vegan fish and chip supper.”
After a less-than-restful night, we fled the B&B and returned to the sanctuary of the path. And wow – this section was tough but stunning.
The day was filled with climbs and descents – classic Cornwall, really – but we broke it up with a brilliant coffee and cake stop at the Boscastle Farm Shop and Café. Just outside the picturesque fishing village of Boscastle, this spot is renowned for its fresh produce and sweeping views over the Atlantic.
Boscastle itself is a place of folklore and mystery – and home to the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic, one of the UK’s most unusual museums. After last night’s spooky stay, it felt oddly appropriate. The museum offers a fascinating insight into the history of witchcraft, from ancient rituals to modern-day paganism, and is well worth a visit.
The final push to Tintagel was rough, with a passing storm and more relentless wind, but spirits were lifted by a lovely encounter with a generous family who wanted to support our fundraising efforts. It’s moments like these that bring warmth and humanity to a tough trek.
Arriving in Tintagel – finally – we were relieved to find a welcoming room at the Tintagel Arms, and we treated ourselves to vegan fish and chips (a surprising delight!) and a much-needed pint. Tintagel is steeped in Arthurian legend, and we looked forward to exploring the castle ruins the next day.
Day 14 – Tintagel to Port Isaac (10.5 miles)
“Shorter on paper, but no easier on the legs…”
We set off early this Bank Holiday morning—too early, unfortunately, for the castle to be open. That said, the bridge we’d hoped to cross was under repair anyway, and we still got a fantastic view of the castle from the path. All in all, we didn’t feel like we missed out.
While today’s distance was shorter, the cumulative fatigue of the past six days was real. Another day of over 2,000 feet of climbing – and the legs are definitely feeling it. Luckily, we were blessed with dramatic coastal views, gale-force winds, and just a splash of rain as we arrived in Port Isaac.
The penultimate leg of the week took us from mythical Tintagel to picture-perfect Port Isaac, famous as the filming location for Doc Martin and full of whitewashed cottages tumbling down to a tiny fishing harbour.
Every bend in the path revealed something new: jagged cliffs, sea stacks, and perhaps even the glimmer of Padstow in the distance – tomorrow’s goal, if the 45 mph winds and heavy rain don’t scupper our plans!
We’re bunkering down at The Slipway, ready to rest up before one last push tomorrow – and then a well-earned day off.
Day 15 – Port Isaac – Padstow (11.7 miles)
“Wet and windy…”
Woke up with a stinker of a cold and barely any sleep… and of course, it was raining. The wind had also decided to get involved. On the plus side: vegan pancakes for breakfast. Win!
We set off and were soaked immediately—waterproofs or not, water always finds a way. As we climbed out of Port Isaac, the wind really made itself known, shoving us off balance at every opportunity. When we saw a particularly exposed ridge walk up ahead, we made the call to take the inland route—less scenic perhaps, but far safer in these conditions.
It was hard going, but the relentless rain kept our pace up. We dipped in and out of the coastal path when it felt manageable and eventually stopped for a well-earned coffee break in Polzeath. Unfortunately, we also created a small lake under our table—sorry to the waitress who had to mop up after our dripping kit!
We grabbed a pasty to go and pushed on. The wind was now full-on battering us, and although the rain eased for a bit, it came back with a vengeance—driving into our faces like tiny needles. We took brief shelter in St Enodoc church, then pushed on to Rock, where we caught the ferry across to Padstow.
By the time we arrived, we were cold, wet, and absolutely shattered. We headed straight to our room, peeled off our soaked layers, and collapsed. A rest day tomorrow couldn’t be more welcome!
Takeaways from Days 11–15
- Toughest stretch: Hartland Quay to Bude was a beast – prepare accordingly.
- Best surprise: Morwenstow Tea Rooms – do not miss!
- Strangest experience: That B&B… you know the one.
- Unexpected joy: The Museum of Witchcraft, oddly comforting after our spooky lodgings.
- Top tip: Don’t assume any day is an ‘easy’ one – the Cornish coast likes to throw surprises.
- SWCP weather: From one extreme to another…
